Shopping for an engagement ring means encountering a world of specialist terminology, from diamond grading scales to setting styles and precious metals. This glossary is your go-to reference for the terms you will come across while designing a bespoke engagement ring, whether you are choosing a lab-grown or natural diamond, selecting a setting, or picking the perfect metal. Written for couples who want to feel confident at every step of the process.
14K Gold
A gold alloy that is 58.3% pure gold, with the remaining percentage made up of strengthening metals such as copper, silver, or zinc. 14K gold is more durable and scratch-resistant than higher-karat options, making it a practical choice for engagement rings worn every day. It is available in white, yellow, and rose gold variations.
18K Gold
A gold alloy that is 75% pure gold, offering a richer colour and higher precious-metal content than 14K. It is the most popular gold purity for fine engagement rings, striking a balance between luxurious appearance and everyday wearability. Like 14K, it comes in white, yellow, and rose gold options.
3D CAD Render
A photorealistic digital image generated from a CAD file that shows exactly how a bespoke ring will look before any metal is cast. Renders let you review proportions, stone placement, and overall design from multiple angles. They are an essential approval step in the custom ring design process.
950 Platinum
A platinum alloy that is 95% pure platinum, making it the standard jewellery-grade specification. Platinum is naturally white (so it never needs rhodium plating), hypoallergenic, and extremely dense, giving rings a satisfying weight on the finger. It is the premium metal choice for engagement rings.
Basket Setting
A prong-style setting where thin metal bands form a small basket shape beneath the centre stone, holding it securely while allowing light to enter from the sides and below. The open framework gives the diamond maximum exposure to light, enhancing its sparkle. It is one of the most common settings for solitaire engagement rings.
Bezel Setting
A setting in which a continuous rim of metal wraps around the entire perimeter of the centre stone, holding it firmly in place. The bezel offers excellent protection for the diamond's edges and creates a sleek, modern profile. It is a popular choice for active lifestyles because the stone sits securely with no exposed corners.
Bow Tie Effect
A dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow that appears across the centre of elongated fancy-shape diamonds such as ovals, pears, and marquises. It is caused by light leaking through the pavilion rather than reflecting back to the viewer. The severity varies from stone to stone; a well-cut oval will show a minimal or no bow tie.
Brilliant Cut
A faceting pattern made up of triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged to maximise the return of white light (brilliance) and coloured light (fire). The round brilliant, with its 57 or 58 facets, is the most recognised example. This cutting style also forms the basis for many fancy shapes, including ovals and pears.
CAD Design
Computer-Aided Design is the process of building a precise three-dimensional digital model of a ring using specialist software. It allows every dimension, curve, and prong to be planned before any physical work begins. CAD is the foundation of the bespoke ring-making process, ensuring accuracy and giving clients a clear preview of the finished piece.
Carat (ct)
The standard unit of weight for diamonds and gemstones, where one carat equals 0.2 grams. Carat weight is one of the 4Cs of diamond grading and appears on every GIA or IGI certificate. Two diamonds of the same carat weight can look different sizes depending on their cut proportions and shape.
Cathedral Setting
A setting style where arches of metal rise from the band to support the centre stone, echoing the flying buttresses of cathedral architecture. The arches add height and visual drama while providing structural support. Cathedral settings pair well with solitaire and hidden halo designs.
Clarity Grade (FL–I3)
A scale used by GIA and IGI to rate the visibility of internal inclusions and surface blemishes in a diamond, ranging from FL (Flawless) to I3 (heavily Included). Higher clarity grades mean fewer or smaller imperfections visible under 10x magnification. For most buyers, a diamond graded VS2 or SI1 will appear clean to the naked eye.
Colour Grade (D–Z)
A grading scale developed by GIA that rates a diamond's body colour from D (completely colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Differences between adjacent grades are subtle and often invisible without a master comparison set. Colourless grades (D, E, F) command a premium, but near-colourless stones (G, H) offer excellent value with no perceptible tint once set in a ring.
Crushed Ice
A cutting style found in fancy-shape diamonds (especially ovals and cushions) that produces a scattered, glittery light pattern resembling crushed ice rather than bold, defined facet reflections. The look results from a specific arrangement of pavilion facets. It is a matter of personal preference; some buyers love the soft sparkle, while others prefer the broad flashes of a traditional brilliant pattern.
CVD Diamond
A lab-grown diamond produced using Chemical Vapor Deposition, a process in which a carbon-rich gas crystallises onto a thin diamond seed inside a vacuum chamber. CVD diamonds are chemically and optically identical to mined diamonds. The growth method is disclosed on IGI grading reports, so you will always know how your stone was created.
Eye-Clean
An industry term describing a diamond whose inclusions cannot be seen with the unaided eye at a normal viewing distance. A diamond does not need a Flawless clarity grade to be eye-clean; many VS2 and SI1 stones qualify. Prioritising eye-clean diamonds is a practical way to balance beauty and budget.
French Pavé
A pavé variation where small diamonds are set into V-shaped grooves cut into the band rather than round holes. The V-shaped channels expose more of each stone's surface, allowing extra light to enter and increasing sparkle. It gives the band a slightly more open, airy appearance compared to standard pavé.
GIA Certified
Refers to a diamond that has been graded and certified by the Gemological Institute of America, widely regarded as the most rigorous and consistent diamond grading laboratory in the world. A GIA report details the stone's 4Cs, proportions, fluorescence, and any identifying features. GIA certification is the benchmark standard for natural diamonds.
Hidden Halo
A ring of small accent diamonds set beneath the centre stone so that they are visible from the side profile but not from above. The hidden halo adds extra sparkle and perceived size without changing the clean, solitaire-like top-down view. It is a popular way to add a subtle design detail to a classic setting.
HPHT Diamond
A lab-grown diamond produced using the High Pressure High Temperature method, which replicates the extreme conditions under which natural diamonds form deep in the earth. HPHT diamonds are physically and chemically identical to mined stones. Like CVD diamonds, the growth method is recorded on the IGI grading report.
IGI Certified
Refers to a diamond graded and certified by the International Gemological Institute, the most widely used laboratory for grading lab-grown diamonds. An IGI report covers the 4Cs, proportions, polish, symmetry, and growth method. IGI certification gives buyers an independent, standardised assessment of their stone's quality.
Lab-Grown Diamond
A real diamond created in a controlled laboratory environment using either CVD or HPHT technology, possessing the same crystal structure, hardness, and optical properties as a mined diamond. Lab-grown diamonds are graded on the same 4Cs scale and certified by laboratories such as IGI. They typically cost significantly less than natural diamonds of equivalent size and quality.
Length-to-Width Ratio
The ratio of a fancy-shape diamond's length to its width, expressed as a single number (for example, 1.40). It determines how elongated or compact the stone appears on the finger. For ovals, ratios between 1.35 and 1.50 are the most popular, though the ideal ratio is a matter of personal taste.
Micro Pavé
An ultra-fine version of pavé setting that uses very small diamonds (often under 1 mm) set extremely close together for a delicate, continuous shimmer along the band. The technique requires exceptional precision from the jeweller. Micro pavé bands pair beautifully with solitaire and hidden halo centre settings.
Modified Brilliant Cut
Any non-round diamond shape that uses brilliant-style faceting to maximise light return. Ovals, pears, marquises, and cushions are all classified as modified brilliants. On a GIA or IGI grading report, an oval diamond will be listed as "Oval Modified Brilliant."
Natural Diamond
A diamond formed over billions of years deep within the earth under extreme heat and pressure, then brought to the surface through volcanic activity. Natural diamonds are graded on the 4Cs scale and typically certified by GIA. Each natural stone is unique, with its own combination of inclusions, colour, and crystal characteristics.
Pavé
A setting technique where small diamonds are set closely together along the band, held in place by tiny beads or prongs of metal. The result is a continuous surface of sparkle with minimal visible metal. Pavé bands add brilliance to an engagement ring without competing with the centre stone.
Rhodium Plating
A thin layer of rhodium (a platinum-group metal) electroplated onto white gold to give it a bright, true-white finish and added scratch resistance. Over time, rhodium plating wears away and the slightly warmer tone of the underlying white gold alloy becomes visible. Replating is a routine maintenance step that restores the original bright white appearance.
Ring Resizing
The process of adjusting a finished ring's internal diameter so it fits the wearer's finger correctly. Sizing up involves stretching or adding metal, while sizing down involves compressing or removing metal. Most rings can be resized by one to two sizes in either direction without affecting the design.
Rose Gold
A gold alloy that gets its warm, pinkish hue from a higher proportion of copper in the mix. Rose gold has become one of the most sought-after metal colours for engagement rings, offering a romantic, vintage-inspired look. It is available in both 14K and 18K purities.
Solitaire
An engagement ring design featuring a single centre diamond with no accent stones on the band. The solitaire is the most timeless and popular engagement ring style, placing all focus on the diamond itself. It works with virtually every setting type, from classic prong to modern bezel.
Step Cut
A faceting style characterised by long, parallel, rectangular facets arranged in concentric tiers, producing a clean, hall-of-mirrors effect. Emerald and Asscher cuts are the best-known step-cut shapes. Step cuts prioritise clarity and lustre over the intense sparkle of brilliant cuts.
Three Stone Ring
An engagement ring featuring a centre diamond flanked by two smaller side stones, traditionally symbolising a couple's past, present, and future. The side stones can match or contrast with the centre diamond in shape and size. It is a classic design that adds visual impact and personal meaning.
Triple Excellent (3EX)
An industry shorthand for a round brilliant diamond that has received the highest grade of Excellent for all three finishing criteria on a GIA report: Cut, Polish, and Symmetry. A 3EX diamond is cut to exacting standards, producing outstanding light performance. It is a widely recognised benchmark among informed diamond buyers.
Wax Model
A physical prototype of a ring carved or 3D-printed in wax from a CAD file, used for a final fit and design check before the piece is cast in precious metal. The lost-wax casting process involves encasing the wax model in plaster, melting the wax out, and pouring molten metal into the resulting mould. Reviewing a wax model is the last hands-on approval step before production.
White Gold
A gold alloy created by mixing pure gold with white metals such as palladium or nickel, then finished with a rhodium plating for a bright, silvery appearance. White gold offers a similar look to platinum at a lower price point. Periodic rhodium replating keeps the surface looking its brightest.