Oval Diamond Bow Ties Explained

Diamond Buying Guide

Oval Diamond Bow Ties Explained: What Causes Them & What Should You Avoid?

The bow tie is one of the most discussed features of an oval diamond, but not every shadow through the centre should be treated as a defect.


What Is an Oval Diamond Bow Tie?

A bow tie is a region of contrast running through the centre of an elongated diamond. In an oval, it can resemble two dark triangular areas meeting near the middle of the stone.

Similar effects can appear in pear, marquise and certain Moval diamonds.


Why Does the Bow Tie Appear?

The effect is created by the relationship between the elongated shape, facet angles, light direction and the observer.

Diamonds require contrast to create scintillation, so some darker areas are normal. The issue arises when the centre remains excessively dark across multiple viewing angles.


Is a Bow Tie Always Bad?

No. A soft, dynamic bow tie can contribute attractive contrast and make bright flashes appear stronger.

A distracting bow tie is one that dominates the centre and remains static even as the diamond moves.


Can Portuguese Faceting Reduce Bow Ties?

Different pavilion arrangements can alter the distribution of contrast through an oval. Portuguese-style or modified faceting may break the centre into additional reflections.

However, no label can guarantee a completely bow-tie-free oval. The individual proportions and execution remain more important.


How to Check an Oval for a Bow Tie

View the stone face-up and move it slowly from side to side. Compare daylight, diffused indoor light and directional lighting where possible.

A lively oval should show changing areas of brightness and contrast instead of one permanently dark band.

AG & CO Tip

Do not judge an oval bow tie from a single photograph. Motion is essential because scintillation is created by changing patterns of brightness and contrast.

Oval Diamonds Without Strong Bow Ties

Learn how faceting, proportions and visual inspection can help identify oval diamonds with balanced centres and attractive contrast.